More places to visit

Madurai
Nestled down near the southern tip of India, this 2,500-year-old city (pop. 1,083,000) is famous for its Hindu and Tamil cultural attractions. A must-see is the impressive multi-towered Sri Meenakshi Temple built in 1560. Actually, you can't possibly ignore it: The temples, covered with brightly painted sculptures and statues, come in all colors, and the effect is practically psychedelic. You can climb a couple of the towers for a good view of the entire complex. Make sure you have plenty of film - the temples are most photogenic. You can observe Hindu devotees bathing in the Tank of Golden Lilies and see the Hall of 1,000 Pillars (all but the inner sanctum is open to non-Hindus). In ancient times the area around the Tank was the meeting place for the academy of poets, who are said to have evaluated works of literature by throwing them into the tank - the ones that floated were the only ones deemed worthy of consideration. Other temples are the Koodal Alagar Temple, where Vishnu is depicted in three forms, and Mariamman Teppakkulam, a small temple set in a large tank (the Teppam float festival is held in the tank every January or February during a full moon). Also visit the Tirumala Nayak Palace for its stucco arches and domes.

For a glimpse of more modern India, visit the Ghandi Museum, which holds informative displays about Ghandi's push for Indian independence. If you're interested in textiles, Madurai is an excellent place to pick up quality silk and cotton, whether raw or as garments. Allow at least half a day to see Madurai. 280 mi/320 km south of Chennai.

Mount Abu
This hill station provides a welcome relief from the Rajasthan heat. Another of those towns so treasured by the British during the Raj, it still retains a colonial feel. (Today, the town is a popular summer retreat for vacationing Indians.)

Mount Abu has been an important holy site for followers of the Jain religion since the 11th century. The Dilwara temples are some of the most intricately carved and beautiful in India. (The marble used to build these temples is the same that was used in the construction of the Taj Mahal.)

A nice small lake (Nakki Lake) offers canopied rowboats for short excursions. There are also a golf course, tennis courts and other recreational facilities, as well as a museum. 385 mi/620 km north of Mumbai.

Mumbai
Mumbai - or Bombay, as it was formerly known - remains India's city of dreams. Despite poverty and eye-watering pollution, it is so dynamic that paupers still flock there in hopes of becoming successful entrepreneurs.

Built largely by the British around one of the best-protected natural harbors in the world, Mumbai is India's business center and one of the most important commercial hubs between Singapore and Europe. It generates more than a third of the country's GNP - half of India's foreign trade moves through this busy seaport on the Arabian Sea. Mumbai is also home to the country's prolific film industry ("Bollywood"), which cranks out more feature films than any other place in the world.

You might think, then, that India's largest city would have a wealth of attractions for visitors. But the city's growth has been so rapid (from fewer than 1 million residents in the mid 1950s to more than 18 million today) that most of the energy has been focused on expanding business enterprises. High-rise hotels, designer boutiques and fine restaurants abound, but there isn't much in the way of museums or historical sites. That's starting to change as the city's Mercedes-driving executives and Cartier-bedecked socialites begin channeling their earnings into easing overcrowding and expanding the cultural offerings. The main draw of Mumbai, like much of India, remains its contradictions. Within minutes (or a few miles) you can be awestruck by the palatial houses on Malabar Hill and then depressed by the makeshift shacks and the bedraggled children in the city's other, far less affluent neighborhoods.

Mysore
In the hill country of southwestern India, this region is cooler than the coastal cities - one of the reasons so many maharajahs chose to live there. The main sights in the city of Mysore (pop. 653,000) are the Nandi Bull, carved from solid stone, and a 2,000-year-old Hindu temple. There are several interesting sights within about a 100-mi/161-km drive: Bangalore; Sravanabelagola, with its impressive 46-ft/15-m statue of Gomateshwara (a Jain saint), cut from one rock; and Belur with its 11th-century Chenna Kesava temple, Halebid temple carvings and spectacular Jog Falls (one of the highest in the world). Every 12 years the Sravanbelagola statue is anointed with thousands of pots of milk, curds, saffron, bananas and sandalwood. Mysore is 540 mi/870 km southeast of Mumbai.

Pahalgam
A resort area set at 6,988 ft/2,130 m, this Kashmiri town along the Lidder River is the starting point for several treks. One of the nicest (and easiest) is to Kolahoi Glacier, which can be done in four days of walking: Stop the first night in Aru (about 7 mi/12 km - stay in a guest house or take a tent) and the next night in Liddervat (another 7-mi/12-km walk - it also has a very basic guest house). The next morning, walk to the glacier, returning to Liddervat to sleep. The following day, return to Pahalgam. If you prefer, you can ride a donkey. A more ambitious trip could be made to Amarnath Cave, site of an annual religious pilgrimage undertaken by thousands of Hindus in July-August. It's also possible to rent horses to ride into the countryside. Trout fishing in the Lidder River is allowed if you purchase a license. Line up early to pay about US$9 per day for a six-fish limit (and be forewarned that the trout run small around there). Pole rentals are available. If you're returning to Srinagar by taxi, ask the driver to stop for 15 minutes at Avantipur to tour the ruined Hindu temples (plaques at the site indicate that many of the carvings now rest in the British Museum).

Like a lot of Kashmir towns, Pahalgam is periodically the site of violent terrorist attacks, and travelers should exercise caution when visiting. In August 2000, militants attacked a pilgrim camp site (the pilgrims were on their way to Amarnath) and killed 32 people. 475 mi/765 km north of Delhi.

Patna
Set along the banks of the holy Ganges River, Patna (pop. 1,100,000) was once an ancient Buddhist capital. But times have obviously changed. Today Patna is a rather poor and crime-ridden Muslim city that merits a visit only if you are already in the area. Its most interesting sites are the 16th-century Sher Shahi Mosque, the Sikh temple, the Governor's Palace, the Patna Museum (city historical displays) and the 90-ft-/27-m-tall Golghar grain-storage bin, which has excellent views of the city (and great acoustics). 530 mi/850 km southeast of Delhi.

Pondicherry
A hint of the Riviera in the subcontinent, this former French colonial city (pop. 400,000) along the Bay of Bengal didn't come under Indian rule until 1954. You can still hear a fair bit of French being spoken as you stroll along its remaining seaside villas and cobblestone streets. The city is really two towns in one: La Ville Blanche, the colonials' former playground; and La Ville Noire, the crowded inland area where the native Indian population was forced to live. The distinctions have lost much of their meaning, of course, but La Ville Blanche still feels more upscale and European. Some of the notable colonial remains include the Hotel de Ville (city hall), from the 1700s, and the Church of Notre Dame, a century older. There's also a pleasant botanical garden and the Pondicherry Museum, which houses a mish-mash of relics from the colonial era. (Antique shops around town have a wonderful selection of relics that you can purchase.) The other side of town, full of markets and peddlers and families coming and going, feels much more robust and authentically Indian.

Pondicherry also has two noteworthy institutions left over from a wholly different legacy. Sri Aurobindo Ashram was built by the followers of Sri Aurobindo, a prophet/philosopher who came to the city in 1910. Auroville, a kind of utopian commune inhabited by people of diverse nationalities, was the idea of Sri Aurobindo's successor. 85 mi/135 km south of Chennai.

Poona
A regional administrative center during the British Raj, Poona is known largely as the former home of Bhagwan Sri Rajneesh, the charismatic guru whose controversial spiritual ranch in Oregon eventually folded in disarray when Rajneesh was deported from the U.S. for tax evasion. Rajneesh died in the early '90s, but his spirit lives on: Osho Commune, a huge center for meditation and spiritual search on the edge of town, continues to attract Westerners by the thousands. 75 mi/120 km southeast of Mumbai.

Rishikesh
The gateway to the Garhwal Himalaya and one of the holiest towns in India, Rishikesh has attracted poets, artists and mystics for thousands of years. Hindus regard it as highly as the Muslims regard Mecca. Meat and alcohol are forbidden, and the inhabitants display a public air of sanctimony. The Beatles came to Rishikesh in the 1960s and sat at the feet of Maharishi Mahesh Yogi, the Indian guru whose Transcendental Meditation Center still markets his spiritual programs with jarring capitalist enterprise to hundreds of Westerners each year. Pilgrims clad in loincloths tread the town's dusty streets or pitch camp on the banks of the sacred River Ganges, which sweeps majestically through the town and out into the great Indian plains. Head for Triveni Ghat to watch pilgrims attend the daily worship ritual known as Aarti. About 20 mi/30 km outside of town is Ananda, a luxurious Western-style spa housed in what was once a British viceroy's hilltop estate. 110 mi/180 km northeast of Delhi.

Sarnath
Site of Buddha's first discourse, Sarnath is as peaceful as nearby Varanasi is hectic. Buddha's teachings are studied in Sarnath, and its atmosphere is more like a campus than a city: It has lovely gardens, temples, a zoo, shrines, an archaeological museum and ruins. Most people go to Sarnath on a pilgrimage to see the bodhi tree that is said to be a direct descendant of the tree Buddha was sitting under when he became enlightened. A visit there will also provide a good opportunity to meet Tibetan refugees and learn about their situation. Allow a half-day excursion from Sarnath to see Varanasi. 15 mi/25 km north of Varanasi and 410 mi/660 km southeast of Delhi.

Sikkim
Sikkim (pop. 406,000) was an independent kingdom in the Himalaya until 1975, when it was annexed following a referendum. Some dispute the validity of that vote, and there is still some resentment evident toward Indians. A special permit is required to go to Sikkim and can be obtained in advance at a Foreigners Regional Registration Office in Darjeeling, Delhi, Mumbai, Kolkata, Chennai or Siliguri (or get permission from an Indian consulate or embassy before departure). The capital and only town in Sikkim, Gangtok, is really a rather long way to go to see beautiful mountain scenery. Be sure to visit the Tibetan-style Rumtek Monastery (beautiful mountain setting and views). Try their apple juice - it's the best we've ever tasted. 345 mi/555 km north of Kolkata.

Simla
The most famous of the British hill stations, this city (pop. 110,000) is the capital of the state of Himachal Pradesh. Set in the foothills of the Himalaya at an altitude of 6,700 ft/2,100 m, it afforded a resort-type atmosphere for the British rulers of India. It doesn't take much imagination to realize how idyllic life must have been there for the privileged during the Raj. Today, it's a popular resort for vacationing Indians (though it still more closely resembles an English village than an Indian city). There are many nice walks that can be taken in the surrounding hills - it's a great place to relax. Also see the Kulu Valley, a pleasant area of fruit orchards, rice fields and Hindu temples. 175 mi/280 km north of Delhi.

Sonamarg
The Golden Meadow (as Sonamarg translates) is the last lush green area on the road leading from Kashmir's capital Srinagar to barren Ladakh. Sonamarg is really just a small collection of stores (e.g., the Cheepest Chemist) and a government-run hotel, but it is also the starting point for a few interesting day hikes. Some 3 mi/4 km from town is the base of the Sonamarg Glacier, where local Gujar tribesmen will be happy to give you a ride on their sleds for a small fee. Or head into the Nichinai Nar Valley and follow the stream for a few hours before turning back. You'll see beautiful views of the mountains. For the more ambitious, a six-day trek reaching a maximum altitude of 13,700 ft/4,200 m can be undertaken to the town of Wangat. 400 mi/650 km north of Delhi.

Srinagar
Srinagar (pop. 606,000), at an altitude of 5,800 ft/1,800 m, is the capital of the troubled region of Kashmir. Once a favored vacation spot, Srinagar today has so many problems that it is no longer worth the trip. Frequent attacks by militants have badly crippled the educational institutions, businesses and daily lives of the local residents.

In less difficult times, Srinagar has been known for its houseboat vacations on Dal Lake and Nagin Lake, which arose after the local maharajah forbade foreigners to own land. The British, who went there to escape the summer heat, built floating castles instead.

Those accommodations range from dark, moldy, claustrophobic quarters to masterpieces of carved wood, oriental carpeting and fine furnishings. Most boats contain two or three bedrooms, a shared dining room, living room, porch and sunroof. Some, particularly those on Nagin Lake (which is farther from town), have magnificent views of the mountains. Salesmen paddle from boat to boat, peddling everything you could want, and plenty you don't want: cold drinks, fruit, nuts, fresh flowers, film, baked goods, papier-mache boxes, woolen shawls, silk carpets, leather goods, money-changing services and on and on. Some boat owners will protect guests from the scurrilous peddlers, but other owners won't - they get a cut from any sale.

If the Kashmir situation improves enough to allow a visit to Srinagar, be sure to take a nighttime ride through the floating community in one of the gaudy shikara gondolas, and visit the local market and Mughal gardens (Chashma Shahi, the Nishat Naseem and especially Shalimar, which has a nightly sound-and-light show). For exercise, climb 1,000-ft/300-m Sankaracharya Hill to see the ancient Shiva temple and beautiful views (it's within city limits).

If the floating salesmen have whetted your appetite for Kashmiri handicrafts, you may want to visit a papier-mache, carpet or wood-carving factory in town. Day trips to other lakes can also be made. Nearby Manasbal Lake is especially pretty, and the very large Wular Lake takes about a day to see. A half-day trip can be taken to the Sheikh Noor-ud-Din Wall Muslim shrine at Cherar-i-Sharif. If rest is all that you desire, two weeks in Srinagar can fly by. If you're just going to see what's there, one or two nights will do. 400 mi/645 km northeast of Delhi.

Thiruvananthapuram
Once known as Trivandrum (pop. 524,000), this tropical seaside city near India's southern tip is the capital of the state of Kerala. Built on seven hills, it has palm trees, excellent beaches and a number of historical attractions.

The city's museums are all located in the north end: the Napier Museum (traditional Keralite, Chinese, Mughal and English architecture), the Sri Chtira Art Gallery (collections owned by the royal Travancore family) and the Science and Technology Museum. The Padmanabhaswamy Temple, dedicated to Lord Vishnu and containing a seven-story tower, is the most important building in the city (it is only open to Hindus). Other sites include a fort and an excellent aquarium.

You can also take a tour through the backwater country with a local fisherman. The best beach in the area - and by far the most popular with tourists - is Kovalam, which lies a few miles southeast of Thiruvananthapuram. The sand, lined with palm trees, seems to stretch forever. There's an excellent hotel (Kovalam Beach Resort) that offers inexpensive Ayurvedic massages, or try longer Ayurvedic therapies at Somatheerum Beach Resort just a few miles north of town. Kerala's beaches are excellent for watching the local fishing technique: low-slung dugout canoes are controlled by tug-o-war teams holding ropes on the beach.

Just 54 mi/87 km southeast is Kanya Kumari (Cape Comorin), the southernmost tip of India, where the Arabian Sea, Bay of Bengal and Indian Ocean meet. The area is a good spot to rest prior to going to the Maldives or after visiting Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary.

Note: Women should not spend time on the beach alone - there have been many reports of attacks on foreign women. Thiruvananthapuram is 780 mi/1,200 km south of Mumbai.

Tiruchirapalli
Tiruchirapalli (pop. 711,000) is worth a day's visit to see the impressive hilltop Ganapati Temple, reached by climbing 434 steps (the staircase is bordered by shrines). Other steps lead the visitor to the Temple of Shiva. From atop the hill you can take in an impressive view of the Kaveri River and surroundings. While in the area, visit the massive Srirangam Temple. 700 mi/1,130 km southeast of Mumbai.

Udaipur
A fascinating walled city of 308,000, Udaipur sits on the shores of Lake Pichola. Its main attractions are its palaces (such as the white marble Maharajah's Palace, or the Winter Palace, with its beautiful inlaid tile, mirrors and mosaics of peacocks), the Jag Mandir (18th-century yellow-sandstone island palace) and Jag Niwas (18th-century granite and marble island palace). Also see the Victoria Hall Museum (local historical displays and antiques), Sahelion-ki-Bari (garden) and the 80-ft-/24-m-high Jagdish Temple. The Lake Palace Hotel, an 18th-century white building on the lake, is the former summer palace of the local maharajah. Even if you don't plan on staying there, at least take the launch over for lunch or dinner. It's a fantastic building in its own right, and the restaurants are very good. Be sure to take a boat ride around the lake. You can take a rewarding day excursion to Chittorgarh, which has the spectacular Victory Tower and the Kumbha Shyam Temple. Plan to spend two nights in Udaipur. 385 mi/620 km north of Mumbai.

Udhagamandalam
Known locally as Ooty, this was the most popular hill station in south India for colonial officials on summer holiday. (It remains a popular tourist destination and is a common location site for Indian feature films.) Attractions include the Ooty Club, St. Stephen's Church (intriguing headstones in the cemetery) and the Government Botanical Gardens (more than 2,000 species of plants). Day trips close by include a drive to Doddabetta, literally Big Mountain, which is the highest peak in the Nilgiris, and boat rentals from the Ooty Lake-Boat House. 540 mi/870 km southeast of Mumbai.

Varanasi
Whether you like it or not, Varanasi is guaranteed to stun. This city of 1,027,000 is the holiest site in India, and thousands of Hindu pilgrims tour its temples and bathe in the Ganges River to gain religious merit. Thousands more go to die and have their ashes thrown into the holy waters. You must be emotionally prepared, because the waters contain not only ashes, but corpses in various stages of decomposition, and the beggars that line the paths to the rivers are often disfigured from leprosy. If you're braced to see this, you'll want to venture down to the boats and onto the water at dawn to see an amazing and spiritually uplifting sight. Scores of people enter the water from one of 70 ghats (riverside platforms with steps) to purify themselves before the rising sun. Some perform religious rituals in the water, others just go to brush their teeth, bathe and swim. Don't even think of entering the water, however - it may be spiritually pure, but it's one of the most polluted rivers in the world. Nor should you take pictures of the cremation ghats. This is considered disrespectful and may cause people to attack you.

You can view the incredible scene from tour boats that patrol the waters at dawn. Small boats (with or without rowers) also can be hired. While you watch, cremations take place on some of the ghats (vultures will likely circle overhead). All of this incredible commotion swirls around the western bank; the eastern bank is unpopulated and almost barren.

Providing the backdrop is an incredible array of temples and ancient buildings, several of them standing at odd angles (their foundations have been eroded unevenly by flood waters). There are 2,000 temples and shrines in Varanasi, but the holiest, Vishvanatha, is closed to non-Hindus (nonetheless, the occupants of the house across the street supplement their income by letting tourists look in from above, and a viewing hole has been made in the wall at the back of the temple). The Durga Temple, which can be visited, is teeming with monkeys (hold onto your valuables). There's also a wonderful temple devoted to the Ramayana, a Hindu tale of love and adventure. The temple's walls tell the story, and in back there's a gallery of mechanically animated displays that make Macy's Christmas windows pale in comparison. There's also a lovely temple and garden on the university campus. Farther downstream on the eastern bank of the Ganges is the Ram Nagar Fort. It isn't one of the country's best, but it does have a fascinating, if gruesome, collection of weapons (from huge serrated swords to machine guns and rhino-skin shields).

Take a walking tour of the Islamic section (Muslims make up a quarter of the population). The streets are filled with Arabic music and veiled women, and it's there that Varanasi silk is dyed, dried and woven. The silk trade is at its most active on Thursday, and a walk through the neighborhood will surely lead to an invitation into a house where the living room has been converted into a loom room.

Be sure to take a half-day trip to Sarnath. Plan on spending at least two nights in Varanasi. 415 mi/670 km southeast of Delhi.