Places to visit

Agra
This city (pop. 956,000) is best known for being the site of the Taj Mahal, the single most important sight a visitor to India can see. Even though millions of pictures have been taken of it, none can do it justice. This elegant structure was built by the Emperor Shah Jahan for his wife Mumtaz Mahal, who died giving birth to their 14th child. It took some 20,000 laborers 22 years to build the Taj, and every detail is absorbing: the classical gardens, the reflecting pool, the elaborate patterns of semiprecious stones decorating the white marble. (More than 200 factories in the area have been shut down to prevent air pollution from discoloring the marble.) If time permits, schedule at least two days in Agra to visit the Taj twice and plan to spend a minimum of an hour on each visit. Hours are from sunrise to sunset, and it is closed on Friday.

But don't limit yourself to the Taj alone. Three other sights in the area should not be missed: Agra Fort, built under the Mughal Emperor Akbar in 1565, contains numerous palaces and a white marble mosque; Itmad-ud-Daulah's tomb, which is a marble forerunner to the Taj; and Fatehpur Sikri, 25 mi/40 km outside of Agra, is an enchanting, extremely well-preserved 16th-century city that was once the capital of the Mughal empire (abandoned 15 years after it was built, it remains deserted to this day). The newer parts of Agra are unexceptional, but if you follow the road out of the Main Gate of the Taj and keep heading straight, you'll find yourself in old Agra, which has a lively market. On a hot spring or summer afternoon, the whitewashed residential area nearby has the look and feel of a small North African town. 125 mi/200 km southeast of Delhi.

Ajmer
An important pilgrimage site for Muslims, Ajmer (pop. 402,000) also has fine examples of Hindu and Mughal architecture. The city has a large fort and many beautiful pavilions lining Anasagar Lake. Nearby is the town of Pushkar, with a sacred lake where devout Hindus go every autumn for ritual bathing and a large fairgrounds where camel traders assemble for a colorful three-day camel festival. (The lake is at its best after a good monsoon season.) However, do not try to photograph women taking their morning dip, and do not let a priest (or someone posing as one) conduct rituals for you - it ends up being heavy on the wallet. Also worth seeing are the Pushkar market and anyone perfoming the "Snake Dance," a local ritual. 220 mi/355 km southwest of Delhi.

Alappuzha
A tropical town in southwestern India (pop. 170,000), Alappuzha lies in a region webbed with canals and fishing areas. We like it because it's a starting or ending point for the exquisite inland waterway trail stretching from there to Kollam (Quilon). The maharajahs once used the 300-mi/483-km network of canals for communication - now tourists chug slowly on riverboats through the shallow, palm-fringed lakes (sometimes running aground) to gaze at a part of Keralan society that revolves around fishing and the processing of coir (coconut fibre), copra (dried coconut meat) and cashews. Families cling perilously to narrow spits of land, somehow managing to keep cows, pigs, chickens and ducks and cultivate small vegetable gardens on islands just a few yards wide. Residents paddle rapier-thin canoes hewn from trunks of the jackfruit tree cross the open stretches of water to sell groceries or deliver rice hay. It's a relaxing, unhurried journey that seems much more like a tour in the South Pacific than in India.

Numerous boat races are held June-September. The main attraction is the Snake Boat Races or Nehru Trophy Races held the second Saturday of August. Each boat holds more than 100 oarsmen and glides through the water like the races' namesake. Alappuzha is 700 mi/1,150 km southeast of Mumbai.

Amritsar
The holy center of the Sikh religion, Amritsar is a 16th-century Punjabi city (pop. 1,050,000) located near the Pakistani border. It's main attraction is the beautiful Golden Temple, which is made of white marble, bronze and gold leaf. To enter the temple, you must don a traditional headscarf, wade through a shallow pool (a purification ritual) and merge with the sweeping mass of bodies that circle the embankment around the holy structure. The temple sustained some damage when it was the site of a bloody battle between Sikh and government forces in 1984. Much of the physical damage has been repaired, but tensions periodically run high in the immediate area.

Other sights include the Baba Atal Tower and the many beautiful gardens. Amritsar is also the place to go to gain insight into the Sikh culture (adherents of the religion don't cut any of their hair; the men are easily identified by their turbans, beards and silver bracelets, the women by the dress-and-pants combination they wear (known as the salwaar kameez, it has become popular around the country). The India-Pakistan border at Wagah is worth a look: The guards on both sides take part in various military rituals, morning and evening, that are strangely symbolic of the violent relationship the two countries share. 255 mi/410 km northwest of Delhi.

Andaman And Nicobar Islands
These 300-plus islands (pop. 280,000) are really off the beaten path. The Andamans, once famous for being home to Kala Pani, a jail for political prisoners during colonial rule, now offer nice beaches, palm trees, dense forests, farms, swampy land and a wide variety of people (ranging from nice to not-so-friendly). The 19 Nicobar Islands, 10 mi/16 km south of the Andamans, are still very primitive, offering few tourist facilities. (At press time, only native Indians with specific business there - mostly research - were being allowed to visit.) The main island is Car Nicobar. The Andamans are reached by air from Kolkata or Chennai or by a three-day boat ride to Port Blair in the Andamans. Travel between the islands is by local boat. Only a few islands are open to foreign visitors, and even those require special permits for a limited stay. Located in the Bay of Bengal, more than 750 mi/1,200 km southeast of Kolkata.

Bangalore
Previously known for its public gardens, Bangalore (pop. 5,561,000) is now famous for its booming software industry. The city requires at least one day to see adequately. The town has a large Anglo-Indian minority and is considerably more Westernized than many Indian cities. Visit the Palace of Tippu Sultan (once home to the south Indian king famous for battling the British), the Bull Temple, the Indian Institute of Science and the 240-acre/100-hectare Lal Bagh botanical garden, with its pools, terraces, fountains, trees and herbs. 530 mi/855 km southeast of Mumbai.

Bhubaneswar
Three towns near the southwest coast have fascinating temple complexes. During the 8th-13th centuries, Bhubaneswar (pop. 411,000), the largest of the three, boasted 7,000 temples. Today, 500 can still be visited in town and in the nearby Dhauli Hills. Konarak, 40 mi/64 km east of Bhubaneswar, is known for its 13th-century Sun Temple, one of the most impressive shrines in India. The temple is in the shape of a chariot for the sun god - enormous "wheels" and other carvings decorate the side of the building. Puri (pop. 125,000), 37 mi/48 km south of Bhubaneswar, was built in the 12th century as a holy Hindu city, and even today pilgrims stream in to visit the Jagannath Temple. Non-Hindus can't enter the temple, but the area is worth visiting to watch the people come and go. All the buildings are covered with chiseled figures of mythological figures, elephants and erotica. Plan three nights for the area. If you're going to Puri in June and July, book early; 200,000 pilgrims will also be in town for the Rath Yatra Festival, when 45-ft-/14-m-high chariots transport the image of Jagannath through the streets. Bhubaneswar is located 300 mi/485 km southwest of Kolkata.

Bijapur
This city (pop. 187,000) has many interesting Islamic monuments. See the Gol Gumbaz, a huge domed tomb with an amazing whispering gallery (any slight noise on one side of the dome can be heard perfectly on the opposite side - and can even echo up to a dozen times). Visit the museum, the Ibrahim Roza tomb, the citadel and some of the dozens of other mosques and Muslim monuments. 535 mi/860 km southeast of Mumbai.

Bikaner
Called the Desert City, Bikaner (pop. 416,000) is stark, yet beautiful - great Hindu and Mughal art is preserved there. Similar in setting to Jaisalmer, Bikaner is a walled city with an important 16th-century fort containing many intricately carved palaces and temples. The fort is remarkably well preserved - it was attacked many times, but never conquered. 240 mi/385 km west of Delhi.

Bodh Gaya
It was in this town (pop. 27,000) that Buddha attained enlightenment under a bodhi tree - which you can still visit. Bodh Gaya has many interesting temples, notably the Maha Bodhi temple, an ornate structure believed to have been built more than two millennia ago. (Much of the original building was destroyed by invaders in the 11th century and rebuilt with assistance from the Burmese government in the late 1800s.) The town also contains a number of meditation centers, many of which offer multi-day courses and retreats. Northeast of Bodh Gaya are the ruins of Nalanda University, once home to 10,000 Buddhist students, 2,000 teachers and nine million texts. Beside the ruins is a small museum. Nalanda is still the site of a Buddhist research center. 225 mi/365 km northwest of Kolkata.

Chandigarh
The capital of two states, Hariyana and Punjab, this city (pop. 505,000) has impressive modern architecture. The city was designed by the great French architect Le Corbusier, who was commissioned for the job by the Indian government. The High Court Building is a standout. Less aesthetic but equally interesting is the Rock Garden, which is decorated with castoff items and industrial and household junk. It represents the 12-year labors of a single man, who built the garden to protest environmental degradation. Chandigarh requires one night (it's usually seen as a halfway stop between Delhi and Srinagar). 150 mi/240 km north of Delhi.

Chennai
The city formerly known as Madras is the fifth-largest in India (pop. 6,648,000) and among the most ancient. Located in the cradle of Indian Christianity, the city is where the first missionaries arrived nearly 1,900 years ago - there are some very old churches. Visit the Basilica of San Thome (where St. Thomas, Christ's apostle, who's buried there, is said to have preached); St. Thomas Mount (a church marks the spot where St. Thomas is said to have died); and the Church of St. Mary, the oldest Anglican church in India (it's within the walls of Fort St. George, a 17th-century fort). Other sights include the grand British-built Old Government House; the lighthouse (for its view - be prepared for a strenuous climb); the central flower market and the very fine Marina Beach, one of the longest in India. Although it's not much to look at, visit the icehouse (also known as Vivekananda House, it's now a hostel), where ice was once stored after arriving by ship. Travelers interested in Indian art should check out the Government Museum, which houses noted collections of ancient bronze and stone sculpture.

Among the interesting Hindu temples in Chennai are Kapaleeswarar, Mallikarjuna and Chennakesava. Also visit the Sri Parthasarathy Temple, built by the Pallava rulers in the 8th century and renovated by the Vijayanagar rulers in the 16th century. It's one of the oldest temples in the city. Check the arts pages of the local newspapers to see if there's a performance of Bharatanatyam, an ancient dance style developed in Tamil Nadu. About 80 mi/130 km northwest of the city is Tirupati, a temple devoted to the Hindu god Balaji, who is known as "the giver of wealth." Tirupati is not especially ancient or beautiful, but it is the richest temple in India. Thousands of travelers and pilgrims arrive every day to make an offering at the temple - which often includes shaving the head - in hopes of winning favor with Balaji. The surrounding town, thanks to the temple's income, is better maintained and manicured than most.

There are also several must-see ruins outside Chennai. The Mahabalipuram ruins, 37 mi/60 km south of Chennai, date from the 7th century and consist of a cave temple, shore temple, monolithic rathas (rock-carved temple chariots) and bas-reliefs (truly among the world's finest). Kanchipuram includes several temples, among them 8th-century Kailasanatha Temple, Ekambaranathar Temple and Vaikunta Perumal Temple. If you're in the area at noon, go to Tirukalikundram (a hill), where a priest uses kites to feed birds (the birds don't always cooperate). 640 mi/1,030 km southeast of Mumbai.

Darjeeling
Set at 7,000 ft/2,135 m, Darjeeling (pop. 73,000) is a bit off the beaten path, but worth the effort to visit. This pretty resort built among tea plantations is one of the cool hill stations, where the rulers of the British Raj could escape the heat of the summer. The place now attracts tourists (primarily upper-class Indians) bent on the same advantages of natural air-conditioning.

Half the fun of visiting Darjeeling is getting there. The famous "toy train" huffs and puffs and climbs to more than 8,000 ft/2,400 m along a narrow-gauge track before reaching the city (you might remember the train from the movie Around the World in 80 Days). The trip begins in Siliguri and takes about eight hours to climb 50 mi/80 km. If you want to save time, take a taxi up and the train down, but be sure to purchase your return ticket in Siliguri - you can't reserve a first-class (or air-conditioned) return ticket in Darjeeling.

Darjeeling is built among hills, and visitors can expect to do a lot of climbing up and down stairs to get from one street to the next (the highest reaches of town are where most tourist development is, the middle level is the turf of middle-class Indian residents and the lower level is where the working-class and native tribal population lives). There's not a lot to do except relax, listen to the Buddhist monks call the faithful to worship on their long, red horns and look at the pretty views.

One sight worth mentioning is the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute, a training school for mountain climbers. Its museum features memorabilia from the first ascent of Everest, and documentary films are often shown (Sir Edmund Hillary's climbing partner, the Sherpa Tenzing Norgay, taught at the institute until his death in 1986). You can tour a tea plantation, but if you do, you may not want to drink Indian tea again - the leaves are normally sifted onto the unclean floor (but you can take solace in the fact that tea leaves are boiled). There's also a depressing zoo (its main attractions are Siberian tigers and yaks), botanical gardens, two Buddhist monasteries, a racetrack and a cable car that connects Darjeeling to the village of Singla Bazar. From mid April until the end of June, it's usually possible to see Mt. Kanchenjunga, the third-highest mountain in the world, from town. The best view is at dawn atop Tiger Hill, 7 mi/11 km away. We're also told that Everest, 140 mi/225 km distant, can be seen, but we've never had any luck trying. Once the rainy season has started, the town is likely to be enveloped in fog, which adds a pleasant spookiness. Mirik, about halfway between Darjeeling and Siliguri, is another hill resort. Mirik offers mountain views, a lake, tea estates and is a good alternative if Darjeeling is fully booked. Two nights in Darjeeling will be enough for the curious; five nights for those in need of rest. Darjeeling is 310 mi/500 km north of Kolkata.

Delhi
Ancient and modern India come together with startling results in Delhi, the nation's capital and third-largest city. While you may stay in a gleaming high-rise hotel with all the latest conveniences, you can step outside and watch a lawnmower pulled by a bullock. Though parts of the city are well planned, with manicured English-style gardens, other areas are crisscrossed by dark, congested alleys that dead-end into centuries-old mosques and palaces.

Officially two separate cities, the old city of Delhi and New Delhi are really two parts of one sprawling metropolis. New Delhi, largely built by the British, is clean and modern with broad, tree-lined boulevards. Old Delhi, considerably less clean, is noted for spectacular Mughal architecture dating back to the 10th century.

This juxtaposition of old and new is, of course, what makes this city of 10 million residents such a fascinating place. Visitors will find that its long history and mix of cultures have spawned an array of architectural wonders, religious sites, eclectic museums and sumptuous cuisine that will assail all of your senses.

Dharmsala
Set in a thick forest with grand Himalayan peaks looming in the distance, this small town in northern India (pop. 18,500) is best known as the home of the Dalai Lama. Since 1959, when the Buddhist spiritual leader fled Chinese-occupied Tibet, Dharmsala has become a haven for Tibetan exiles and refugees as well as a frequent destination for Buddhists worldwide. The Dalai Lama himself spends a fair bit of the year traveling, but Dharmsala still remains a stirring and intriguing place. The upper part of the town, known as McLeod Ganj, is where the Dalai Lama and the Tibetan government-in-exile reside. Sometimes referred to as "Little Lhasa" (the Tibetan capital), upper Dharmsala teems with markets, craft sellers, small restaurants and guest houses. Monks in oxblood robes stroll about amid flapping, colorful prayer flags and make chit-chat with other locals as they head to and from their various monasteries. Shoppers can find excellent handmade Tibetan carpets.

Among Dharmsala's Buddhist attractions are the Dalai Lama's Namgyal Monastery, the Tibetan Children's Village (which houses and educates some 2,000 students) and the Tibetan Institute of Performing Arts. The institute routinely puts on traditional Tibetan musical and dance performances, culminating in the 10-day Folk Opera Festival in mid April. The Kangra Art Museum contains collections of indigenous sculpture, pottery, painting, costumes and jewelry dating back to the 5th century. A number of meditation retreats are sponsored in Dharmsala throughout the year, many of them open to visitors. About 300 mi/500 km north of Delhi.

Ellora And Ajanta
Ellora and Ajanta aren't cities, but ancient sites filled with wonderful religious carvings and paintings. Ellora is a collection of 34 cave-shrines, chiseled out of solid rock between the 4th and 9th centuries. The oldest carvings honor the figures and stories of Buddhism, the middle period work is devoted to Hinduism and the last phase is devoted to Jainism. The marvel of these hand-carved temples is that they were chiseled out of the hillside from the top down. Probably the most incredible site is the immense Kailash Temple, a hindu shrine twice the size of the Greek Parthenon. It took 800 workmen some 150 years to build, and it's clear why. Walk through the rooms of the temple and admire the details in every wall - it's really very impressive. Cave 12 is a three-story domicile that was used as monks' quarters during the 7th century. The monks' beds and pillows were, like everything else, carved out of the rock. Don't miss the colonnaded hall of Cave 33, the hall of Cave 10 and the Ravana rock carvings - we were simply astounded by their beauty.

Ajanta is more touristy than Ellora, largely because its caves are considerably older and often even more impressively sculpted. The earliest date back to the 2nd century BC, and several of them have retained color in their painted frescoes (all the surfaces of both sites were once painted). Nearly all of the carvings are devoted to Buddhist stories and characters. Pay particular attention to the sculpted wall panels, beautiful facade and court of Cave 19. (Also at Ajanta, take a look at the geodes and other crystal minerals being sold by the local kids - some are great bargains.)

Unless time is really tight, don't try to see both sites in one day. Plan the better part of a day at each, but allow time to stop at a few other attractions along the way. Among them are the Bibi-ka-Maqbara (a poor imitation of the Taj Mahal built for Emperor Aurangzeb's wife), Daulatabad (an old ruined fortress - the guide will tell you grisly stories about the fort's torturers) and the town of Paithan, where gold and silk embroideries are woven, based on designs copied from the caves. Allow at least one or two days to visit the caves. Ellora and Ajanta are both about 200 mi/320 km east of Mumbai.

Game Parks
India's game parks hold almost as much adventure, mystery and beauty as their African counterparts and contain many similar animals: hyenas, jackals, wild dogs, antelope, buffaloes, elephants, monkeys, crocodiles and a splendid assortment of large and colorful birds. But India is the only destination in the world where you can see lions, tigers and bears in the wild. As a bonus, the park fees are generally lower, and many parks are easily reached by public transportation.

However, more patience is required of a visitor to Indian parks. You're unlikely to see vast herds of animals, a common site in most African safari parks. The major attractions of Indian parks are often solitary animals that prefer a cover of thick forest - they're usually seen only at dawn or dusk. We don't specifically recommend going during the hot, dry spring weather, but if you do, you'll encounter fewer people and the animals will be easier to find (usually around the water holes).

Below is a brief description of some of the major parks. Others that should be seen if you're already in the neighborhood include: Shivpuri, for demoiselle cranes and sambar and chital deer (270 mi/430 km south of Delhi); Manas, for elephants, rhinos and hog deer (near the Bhutan border - it may require special permission to visit); and Jaldapara, for rhinos, leopards, monkeys and many birds (also near Bhutan - may also require special permission to visit). The best months to go are November and February.

Bandhavgarh - Tigers, black-faced langur and rhesus monkeys, and many other animals roam this park, which is in the state of Madhya Pradesh. The park also has a fort still owned by the maharajah of Rewa (visits are possible). The park is open November-June.

Bandipur and Nagarahole - These two parks sit on the border where the states of Karnataka, Tamil Nadu and Kerala meet. They are home to Asian elephants, gaurs, sambar and chital deer, antelope and wild pigs. The Karapura area is a good place to see leopards.

Bharatpur (Keoladeo Ghana) - One of the most important bird sanctuaries in the world, Bharatpur lies just an hour's drive from the Taj Mahal in Agra. Shallow lakes, divided by a network of dikes and roads suitable for strolling, are home to more than 350 species of birds, including three types of herons, four of egrets, three of storks and two of cranes (including the rare Siberian crane, in winter months). The park can be seen by walking, bike buggy or bicycle. It's advisable to take along one of the local guides for the day (in addition to knowing the names of all the birds, they also know the locations of python dens). Winter (October-January) is the park's best season, as migratory birds triple the number of species represented.

Corbett - Easily accessible from Delhi, this park has been developed to accommodate tourists. Visitors taking park-sponsored elephant rides are likely to see herds of elephants and several varieties of deer. If you're lucky, you'll see tigers, leopards and sloth bears. Tours to the park can be easily arranged in Delhi. November-May is the best season; after February, it can be very hot.

Dudhwa - On the Nepalese border in the state of Uttar Pradesh, this park is home to tigers, some leopards and reintroduced one-horned rhinos. This is also a good area for bird watching. The best time to visit is December-May. The Dudhwa rail station lies within the park.

Gir - Situated near the Arabian Sea northwest of Mumbai, this park is the only home of the Asiatic lion (it's slightly smaller than the African variety, with a thinner mane). If you don't spot a lion in the wild, attend a park-sponsored lion show (a tame animal is tethered - and screened from tourists - and lions show up to investigate). There are also several species of deer, wild boars, four-horned antelope and leopards in the park. Visit October-June.

Kanha - In central India, this excellent large park was Rudyard Kipling?s inspiration for The Jungle Book. Unfortunately, it is not easy to get to if you haven't rented a car. Jabalpur, the nearest rail station, is 105 mi/170 km away, and Nagpur, the nearest airport, is 158 mi/270 km away. From those junctions, the rest of the trip is via uncomfortable local buses. Tigers, monkeys and the rare barasingha deer are likely to be seen. It's best visited November-May.

Kaziranga - This park in northeastern India is one of the best in the country. It's home to the great Indian one-horned rhino (whose numbers are rapidly being depleted by poachers), hog deer, barking deer, elephants and waterfowl. It's best seen by riding an elephant. The best time to go is October-March. Special permission must be obtained to visit the park; for information, contact an Indian embassy/consulate or, in India, a Foreigners Regional Registration Office.

Mudumalai - We think this is the nicest park in the southern state of Tamil Nadu, as well as one of the best in India. Visit from February-May and September-October to enjoy rich bird life, leopards, elephants, deer, monkeys and wild pigs. Elephant rides are easily arranged.

Periyar Tiger Reserve - In the southwestern state of Kerala, this is the best elephant sanctuary in India, despite its name, although it does have tigers, as well as monkeys, wild boar and sambals. Walking tours are offered, but the best way to see the reserve is to take a boat ride on the manmade lake, which is surrounded by the wildlife areas. The park should be visited October-May. Avoid going during the monsoon season (June-September) when most animals keep out of the heavy rains in the dense foliage.

Ranthambore - This is more a tiger reserve than tourist game park. Once there, you'll have to hire a private driver and jeep in town to tour the 243-sq-mi/392-sq-km park. A 1,000-year-old fort is just outside the park's gates (which are part of an old fortification). Surrounding the impressive park (tigers, deer, waterfowl and crocodiles are seen there) are gorges and cliffs. November-February is the best time to visit the reserve.

Sariksa - In Rajasthan, this park features night rides on a spotlight-equipped minibus. Visitors will likely see four varieties of antelope, peacocks and wild hogs (and if they are lucky, tigers, leopards and porcupines). You can stay in government-run bungalows or Hotel Sariska Palace, a former maharajah's hunting lodge.

Sunderbans - In West Bengal, this is the sanctuary with the highest tiger concentration, but it's not easy to tour. The area is so often flooded that many tigers have evolved with webbing between their toes. It's also home to several species of deer, wild boars, crocodiles, gangetic dolphins and birds. Only the well-traveled, adventurous visitor should undertake a journey there. The best time to visit is September-May.

Gangotri
A tiny village nestling 10,000 ft/3,000 m up in the Himalaya, Gangotri - along with nearby Badrinath, Yamunotri and Kedernath - is one of the four great mountain shrines in the Garwhal Himalaya, a vast region of primeval forest and towering mountains. It's also the base for a one-day hike to the source of the Ganges (beware rock slides), which emerges from an ice cave at the snout of the Gangotri Glacier some 13,800 ft/4,200 m above sea level. Accommodation in Gangotri is alarmingly basic: Heavy winter snow forces residents to move down the mountain for six months of the year. There is no electricity and little heat, so nights are often spent huddled under thick woolen quilts. It's a 14-hour journey by clattering bus from Rishikesh to Gangotri. 200 mi/320 km northeast of Delhi.

Goa
Goa (pop. 1,343,000) was settled by the Portuguese in 1505 as the seat of the Catholic Church in the East - it only became part of India again in 1961 (when India invaded to liberate it from Portugal). Goa is one of India's prime tourist locations, thanks to its picturesque location on the Mandovi River, between the Western Ghats and the Arabian Sea. (Unfortunately, package tours from Europe in recent years have changed a charming Portuguese ex-colony into a sprawl of budget hotels and bars.) The state's Portuguese heritage can still be seen in its plazas, cathedrals and architecture. (A few Portuguese even insist that Goa retains more old world heritage than most of Portugal.) A fun way to explore Goa is by renting a bike or scooter. They are easily available, but you must have an International Drivers License, and your passport will generally be kept as a guarantee.

Although it's best known for its 65 mi/105 km of magnificent, palm tree-lined beaches along the Arabian Sea (and as a famed gathering place for hippies in the 1960s), Goa has other attractions of significance. Among them are the Portuguese Catholic Church of Old Goa, St. Anne's Church (an ornate marvel from the 1600s) and the Basilica of Bom Jesus (most of the mummified body of St. Francis Xavier is exhibited there on occasion). The surrounding countryside is dotted with luxurious old estates built by wealthy Indians (many of whom converted to Catholicism), including Braganza Palace, which is open to the public. (For those interested in Portuguese India, Diu and Daman are two other former Portuguese outposts.)

If time permits, take the 20-hour boat ride between Goa and Mumbai. Plan to stay two nights if you aren't interested in beaches or up to seven nights if sand and water are important. 350 mi/560 km south of Mumbai.

Gulmarg
Set at an altitude of 8,900 ft/2,700 m, this Kashmiri resort area has four ski lifts and a golf course. Gulmarg is also a base for area treks (if time doesn't permit a long hike, there's an easy half-day walk that circles the city, affording excellent views). In the winter, this area can be quite a bit colder than nearby Srinagar. 400 mi/645 km northeast of Delhi.

Hampi Ruins
Take a bus from the railway town of Hospet to see the extensive ruins of this former capital of an old Hindu kingdom. Elaborate relief carvings as well as Hindu shrines (still in use) are the main attractions. Allow a full day and wear comfortable shoes. The ruins are spread over a huge area. 350 mi/565 km southeast of Mumbai.

Hyderabad
Founded in 1591 by Mohammed Quli Qutub Shah, Hyderabad (pop. 7,000,000) is now India's fourth-largest city. Although it was under Muslim rule for centuries, Hyderabad is architecturally different from any other Mughal-founded city. Its best-known landmark is the rectangular Charminar, which has four minarets. Other sights include the Mecca Masjid Mosque, Faluknama Palace, Golconda Fort and Salar Jung Museum (excellent art and jade collection). Nearby Hanamakonda Hill has a beautiful temple, with 1,000 pillars and a statue of Nandi. Allow one day. 400 mi/645 km southeast of Mumbai.

Jaipur
The Pink City (pop. 1,460,000) is a walled Rajasthani capital famous for its unusual rose-colored sandstone architecture. Local maharajahs built quite a few magnificent structures there. Two are must-sees: The early-18th-century Jantar Mantar is the largest and best preserved of the five observatories built by the astronomer prince Jai Singh II. The observatory complex is fascinating - the prince built the huge stone structures to measure the local time and the declination of stars and planets and to predict eclipses. The other must-see within the city is the city palace and museum, which was once a beautiful royal residence. It contains excellent examples of Rajasthani and Mughal art and architecture.

Also of interest are the Palace of the Winds (known as Hawa Mahal), whose facade is adorned with elaborate, perforated screens - it's one of the most photographed monuments in India (and a nearby market sells many hand-decorated textiles, a regional specialty); Jal Mahal, a maharajah's summer palace; and Tiger Fort (yet another royal residence). Not far out of town are the 18th-century Amber Palace and Fort. The palace is, in our opinion, the finest and best preserved in the country. The fort is less impressive, but should also be seen (while the walk is nice, you can also ride an elephant between the two).

One very full day in Jaipur is enough to see most of the sites, but we really recommend two days. At least one of them should be spent seeing the sights of Jaipur itself and another half day seeing the Amber Palace. (If time is short, skip Jal Mahal and Tiger Fort.) 155 mi/250 km southwest of Delhi.

Jaisalmer
We love the Oasis of Jaisal. (It's easy to see where the name came from - it's the only inhabited spot for miles around in the Great Indian Desert.) Built of a uniform-colored desert sandstone, Jaisalmer is dramatically perched on a flat-topped hill. The town offers several interesting Jain temples and intricately carved buildings (known as havelis) jammed within the confines of its walls. The city is a collection of narrow alleys, delicate latticework and two medieval estates (the Patwon-ki-Haveli and Salim-ki-Haveli). Before sundown, walk to the inns and rest houses just below and to the west of the town or take a camel ride out to the Bada Bagh, a collection of royal stone cenotaphs just north of the city walls. As the sun goes down, the stones of the entire town take on the shades of the fading sky - it's a magical sight. Another attraction there is the colorful clothing worn by the local people (they wear brilliant colors, perhaps to make up for the starkness of the surrounding terrain). If you're interested in a camel ride into the desert, take a jeep excursion from town to a nearby camel station. 410 mi/660 km southeast of Delhi.

Jodhpur
The city (pop. 506,000) that gave its name to riding breeches is dominated by an imposing fort sitting on top of a hill. Inside the walls of this citadel is a collection of buildings famed for their beautiful and colorful decorations. One especially nice room, the Royal Harem, is filled with extraordinary latticework. (Also within the fort's walls, you'll probably have the opportunity to see colorfully clad snake charmers.) Watch for the gate that's nearly covered with white handprints. This is the suttee gate, marked by women as they exited the city just before going down the hill to throw themselves onto their husbands' funeral pyres.

For a true taste of maharajah luxury, try to overnight in the Umaid Bhavan Palace, where the present maharajah of Jodhpur lives. Half of the palace has been turned into a hotel (the potentate and his family inhabit the upper floors). 300 mi/485 km southwest of Delhi.

Kargil
Mostly inhabited by Arab-speaking Shiites, Kargil is the second-largest city in Ladakh, the eastern two-thirds of the state of Jammu and Kashmir. While there's not really much to see or do there, the bus from Srinagar to Leh stops in Kargil overnight. 400 mi/645 km north of Delhi.

Kashmir
In the northwestern corner of India, this beautiful, mountainous area has been a trouble spot since India was partitioned in 1948. At that time, the Hindu ruler chose to be incorporated into India rather than Pakistan, despite the fact that the overwhelming majority of the population was Muslim. These days, India and Pakistan contest parts of Kashmir and periodically exchange fire over the border. Militant attacks are frequent. Jammu, Kargil and especially Srinagar are considered unsafe for tourists. There has also been a rise in support for traditional Islamic tenets: the photographing of women has been prohibited, and movie theaters, bars, health clubs and video-rental outlets have been shut down.

In times of calm, though, Kashmir can be wonderful. It contains breathtaking views of the Himalaya, and there's great trekking in the area - much of it can be undertaken by inexperienced hikers (tenting equipment can be rented in Srinagar). Located 290 mi/465 km north of Delhi.

Khajuraho
Situated in the middle of a beautiful region of hills, lakes and 10th- and 11th-century Chandela-dynasty temples, this town seems ordinary enough, but the exquisitely carved temples make it a must-see. These temples are best known for their erotic carvings (this is a favorite honeymoon spot for Indians; the carvings - which leave little to the imagination - are regarded as an educational experience). Originally there were 85 temples, but many were destroyed by the British, and only 22 are still in even fair condition. Be sure not to miss Kandariya Mahadeo Temple and Khajuraho Temple, the Khajuraho Museum, the Lakshman Temple (beautiful carvings of women), the Amorous Couple at Devi Jagdamba Temple, the Vraha Temple (dedicated to the god Shiva) and Parvati Temple. Plan at least a full day there. Several adequate hotels are found near the temples. The most convenient way to visit Khajuraho is by plane from Varanasi or Delhi. 310 mi/500 km south of Delhi.

Kochi
Kochi (pop. 686,000), once visited by King Solomon and the intended destination of Columbus, is called the Queen of the Arabian Sea. Its beautiful lagoons, lakes and greenery offer a lovely setting for a stay of three nights. Long famed in the history books, Kochi (formerly known as Cochin) offered refuge to Jews more than 2,500 years ago. Be on the lookout for the Pardesi Synagogue built in 1568 and street signs indicating Jew Town. (Surprisingly, descendants of those Jews still survive. We noticed a sign above a doorway that read: "J.E. Cohen, Advocate and Tax Consultant, Synagogue Lane, Jewtown." A Star of David was worked into the iron grille of Mr. Cohen's windows for good measure.) Jew Town is also home to a number of craft and antique stores. Most allow you to buy a large shipping container that can be filled with merchandise and then shipped back to your home country.

The first European colony in Kochi was founded by the Portuguese in the 16th century, and their influence can still be detected. They were followed by the Dutch and, eventually, the British - the cosmopolitan mix of cultures makes the city fascinating. Try to find the tombstone marking the original burial place of Vasco da Gama (his remains were later sent to Portugal) at St. Francis Church, and visit some of the city's other churches, temples and mosques.

Stop by the two academies that teach and give public demonstrations of Kalaripayatt, believed to be one of the oldest martial arts in the world, or check local arts listings to attend a Kathakali play, the traditional story-plays of Kerala performed by men. To learn more about the culture of Kerala, take the 6-mi/10-km ride to Edapally to visit the Museum of Kerala History.

At some point in your stay, take a small launch over to Bolghatty Island to view the British governor's residence (now a hotel and a nice place for tea or dinner). If you're interested in shopping for rosewood and shell handicrafts or pepper and exotic spices, go to Mahatma Gandhi Road. We also thoroughly enjoyed our half-day boat trip on the canals to nearby Alappuzha. Kochi is 670 mi/1,080 km southeast of Mumbai.

Kolkata
Formerly known as Calcutta, India's second-largest city (pop. 14,000,000) is fascinating and awful. For many people, 24 hours in this teeming east coast metropolis is about all they can take - the poverty, slums (bustees) and filth are enough to make this a once-only destination for some. But there are also enough beautiful things to justify a three-night stay.

Visit the Marble Palace mansion (to see the paintings and statues), the Jain Temple, Dakshineswar Hindu Temple (12 Shiva shrines), Belur Math (a Buddhist monastery) and the Victoria Memorial; climb the Octherlony Monument (218 steps up to a spectacular view of the city); and see Dalhousie Square (interesting architecture) and the Nakhoda Mosque. The city is also the home of Mother Teresa's Ashram Home of Children, a visit to which can be an emotional and enlightening experience. Skip the zoo, but spend time in the Maidan (market), walking around and meeting the people. Also worth a long look is the Indian Museum, a classic 19th-century British institution with collections of ancient art and relics beginning from India's Buddhist era.

As in many large Indian cities, Kolkata has a fascinating train station (Howrah Station), which is worth a visit even if you're not taking a train. A microcosm of Indian life, Howrah is filled with thousands of people milling about, eating, sleeping and even living in its interior. Just outside the station is one of the city's most recognized monuments, the massive steel Howrah Bridge across the Hooghly River. If the volume of people in the station didn't impress you, the mass movement of humanity on this bridge certainly will. Also fascinating is the subway, which has marble-adorned stations and which people actually line up to board. A less modern form of transportation is equally abundant in Kolkata - the hand-pulled rickshaw. A few years back the Indian government tried to take them off the streets, but relented in the face of opposition from the pullers themselves.

About five hours northwest of Kolkata is the small town of Bishnupur, which holds a number of impressively carved terra-cotta temples dating back to the 1600s. Kolkata is 815 mi/1,310 km southeast of Delhi.

Kollam
Kollam (pop. 168,000) is usually seen by visitors as the starting point for a boat trip down the tropical inland waterways to the town of Alappuzha. Kollam is an ancient city with traces of Portuguese, Dutch and British influence. There's a nice government rest house available for overnight stays. 760 mi/1,220 km south of Mumbai.

Ladakh
Ladakh is the name for the eastern two-thirds of the state of Jammu and Kashmir. It's in a beautiful Himalayan range, characterized by a desolate moonlike landscape and snowy peaks (it's inaccessible by road during the winter). We have waited weeks for the roads to clear in the past. Ladakh is extremely dry because the mountains keep clouds out, resulting in rainfall levels as low as in the Sahara. In some ways, it's more purely Tibetan than the Tibet of today: When Tibet was swallowed by China in the 1950s, the Chinese did their best to dilute Tibetan culture. Ladakh's Tibetans, however, have carried their traditions forward unimpeded. That's not to say Ladakh is untouched by outside influences - the area has been open to tourists since the mid 1970s, and substantial changes have occurred, especially in Leh. There are still sections, however, that seem to have remained unchanged for centuries. Adventurous travelers can get around on the uncomfortable old buses that ply the roads, while others will want to take an escorted tour. Some of the treks through the area include white-water rafting.

As the sky-high (11,499 ft/3,505 m) capital of Ladakh, Leh is where most tourists stay while visiting area monasteries. It's a fun town to walk around - you may see sidewalk magicians, monks chanting, old women spinning prayer wheels and Tibetan refugees selling wares in the market. Leh Palace, which resembles Tibet's Potala, is in such disrepair that it's not worth going in, but the view from the entrance is quite grand. The Leh Gompa (a gompa is a monastery), which is in good shape, has interesting artifacts and is within walking distance from town. It's worth seeing, though it's not as nice as many of the gompas in the outlying region. Alchi is the oldest gompa accessible by public transportation from Leh. It has a huge old wooden god painted with scenes from Buddha's life and many interesting wood carvings.

The 4-mi/6-km walk from the monastery to the town of Saspol is surreal. Nowhere is the moonlike landscape of Ladakh more pronounced: There's no vegetation, only stone chortens (small religious totems) dotting the sandy countryside. Among the other monasteries in the area are Shey Gompa and Tikse Gompa - take the interesting 1-mi/2-km walk between them. Tikse has a stunning two-story Buddha and is home to many very old thanka paintings (unfortunately, they're in a room so dark that it's difficult to see them).

The Lamayuru monastery, located 9 mi/15 km off the Srinagar-Leh Road and near a high pass (13,400 ft/4,100 m), looks like it belongs in Shangri-La. It's a fairly large Tibetan monastery, nestled in a valley with a thin finger of green flowing from it (the heavily cultivated banks of a stream). The first buildings on the site date back to the 10th century, making it the oldest monastery in Ladakh. At one point 400 monks lived there, though only 30 are there today. The monastery's main attraction is an 11-headed, 1,000-eyed image of the god Chanrazi. 400 mi/645 km north of Delhi.

Although a number of Ladakh treks begin in Leh, the preferred area for trekking is the more remote southwestern region of Zanskar. Treks there are much more strenuous than the walking treks from Kashmiri towns, and careful planning is necessary; the inexperienced should join an organized tour (some of the tours include white-water rafting or canoeing). It's essential that anyone trekking independently in this area take everything necessary - there are almost no provisions to be found en route. If you're going without a tour, a local guide is strongly recommended. Bear in mind that it will be very cold any time of year. It's possible to arrange a pony trek for some trails, but the local saddles are very uncomfortable. In additon, because of Zanskar's relative proximity to the troubled parts of Kashmir, travelers should exercise some caution when deciding whether and when to go. The reward for all of this, however, is a journey through a truly wonderful and remote region - it's an unforgettable experience. Leh is 390 mi/625 km north of Delhi.

Little Ran Of Kutch
This place with the playful name is a wildlife desert area worth a full day's visit to see gazelles, blackbucks, wild asses, a wide variety of birds and other animals. We suggest staying two nights. It's reached by flying to Ahmadabad and driving to Zainabad. 480 mi/770 km southwest of Delhi.

Lucknow
Located in north central India, not far from the Nepalese border, this city (pop. 1,619,000) has gardens, parks and the beautiful Bara Imambara tomb (an enormous tomb of a Shiite holy man). Lucknow is known especially for its historical role as the site of the Uprising (the British prefer to call it a mutiny) of 1857 against the British Residency. Although it was ultimately unsuccessful, it was the first dramatic act of rebellion against the Raj, and it served to fan the desire for independence (a desire that would take almost 100 years to fulfill). The Residency itself is in ruins - it was not restored after the siege - which gives it a ghostly quality. Since Poonjaji, one of the more fashionable Indian gurus, made the town his base, Lucknow has been visited by many Westerners interested in Eastern religion and meditation. 260 mi/420 km southeast of Delhi.